the tool post is very stiff but sometimes I can see the compound flex. Over the years of cutting my compound seems to have developed much more flex. I shortly after getting the lathe bought a AXA QCTP for it, I actually never used the lantern post it came with. I bought parts on garage sales, from motorcycle shops, flea market and everywhere in between. I learned everything that i know from this lathe and over the years collected up another craftsman 12 lathe with a gearbox, steady rest, follower rests, a 4 jaw chuck, milling attachment and more. A couple hundred buck later I had my first machine too, a Craftsman lathe. While working with him my dad learned he had a lathe and asked if he wanted to get rid of it. After selling the farm he took the lathe with him. His friend wanted to have his son learn how to work on the lathe and my guess is in trying to figure out how to use it he crashed the lathe and tore the gearing for the compound feed in the apron. It was in great condition complete with chuck, tailstock and some tooling. In the barn there was a nice condition Atlas 12 lathe that was Craftsman branded model 101-07403. He had owned the lathe from a purchase of a farm that he subsequently owned for 5 years. I got my Atlas years ago from my father's best friend. so I hesitated to make this suggestion at all and take NO responsibility for any tears resulting.Hopefully this thread will help out my fellow Craftsman 12 lathe owners in improving the compound stiffness on their Atlas 12 lathes. Tinning is essential with aluminium, but possibly could be skipped with diecast - however Atlas seemed to prefer not to use high quality Zamak metal, which if the right grade is matched with the right application, is great stuff. However I haven't tried this and frankly don't intend to: there's enough dodgy diecast material in the world without me adding to it!Īnd the chances of melting the gear while you're tinning it seem remarkably high. It is supposed to stick to diecast if you jab the cast material with the end of the rod to break down the skin resistance. LarryMaybe someone with nothing to lose could use plaster of paris to make a mould from elsewhere around the gear, then reposition the gear in the mould (having freshly tinned the broken section with a fluxless aluminium repair rod like Aloweld or Durafix) and cast some new teeth with the self-same rod.
I have never heard of a way to repair that material, but if you know how, tell us.
0 kommentar(er)
